Maria (hostal Sol y Luna), Coroico

On first arrival to Bolivia in July, Karen whisked me away to the Yungas, an area of high and very steep valleys for a year-long delayed honeymoon. Situated between 800 and 2000 metres, these valleys are high in altitude. But being in Bolivia, so close to the equator, one finds in them all manner of subtropical vegetation and fauna; a paradise only three hours away from La Paz and the harsh climatic conditions of the altiplano. Coroico, the town, receives many backpackers throughout the year but does not seem to be overtly full right now. We stayed at this hostel perched on the side of the mountain with enough land to have a number of huts dotted around in such lush vegetation that it is difficult not to imagine being alone in the wilderness. The hut has a thatched roof (Jatata, its name, is supposed to refer to this type of roof) and, being open to the elements, we have in front of us the most amazing view of the valley and, in the distance, the snow-capped mountain of Mururata. As the story goes, Mururata and the sacred Andean mountain of Illimani, also clearly visible, had a fight which Ilimani clearly won by beheading her opponent. This is the reason for the loser’s current aspect with a flat top.

Maria is the cook and general manager of hostal Sol y Luna. She is short, no taller than 150 cms and almost as wide as she is tall. But she is the most relaxed, friendly and gentle person I have encountered in my life. Maria exudes this inner sense of happiness, of being at peace with herself that I would like to experience one day. She is there working, no matter how early (or late) you happen to go by. She will sort out your room, the taxi or dinner any time. Don’t expect speed; your pique macho or milanesa might take one hour to arrive. You have to be prepared to wait and take it all in but the wait is always worthwhile. We don’t speak a lot to Maria but on the day of departure, she gives us a big kiss and asks us to go back. You know? We might just do that one day.